The Perfect T-shirt10:15 AM
Since most patterns are drafted for someone that is 5'5" tall, at my mere 5'1", that's 4" of difference between m...
Since most patterns are drafted for someone that is 5'5" tall, at my mere 5'1", that's 4" of difference between me and the pattern size. I've always shortened my patterns at the "shorten/lengthen" line. That adjustment is intended to bring the waist of the pattern up to my actual waist. No doubt, I've been sewing a LONG time, but I reached an epiphany a few weeks ago.
That method works pretty ok. But I'm not looking for ok, I'm looking for amazing. So at the encouragement of Becca over at Free Notion and her blog post "Muslins aren't magic. They're math", I decided to retackle my favorite shirt, the Patterns for Pirates Layer Me Up. This pattern fits me pretty well, but it was quite clear it wasn't perfect. I still had a few wrinkles here and there. I knew I could do better. So I started chopping, adjusting and using... MATH <gasp>.
So I normally take 1 1/2 inches out of the top of patterns. The other 2 1/2 inches come out of my inseam. I have a short shoulder to waist measurement, proportionally long waist to hip measurement and then short legs. So rather than just chopping 1 1/2 inches out of the shorten/lengthen line, I took 1/2" out of the sleeve cap and upper bodice and then 1" out of the waist.
So this beautiful blue shirt has not yet been finished, I still have an unfinished neckline, and raw hems. Please note that while the bust says I don't need a full bust adjustment, my shirt hem says otherwise. Since I don't need more width in the pattern, I cheated and added 1/2" at the center front and graded it to zero at the side seam.