Summer Friday with the 1 Puddle Lane Miss Ruby Tuesday11:29 AM
Welcome to my second installment of Summer Friday. A series of summer themed sews to get you in the mood for hot weather. Today we talk ...
Welcome to my second installment of Summer Friday. A series of summer themed sews to get you in the mood for hot weather.
Today we talk about my new favorite pattern, the Miss Ruby Tuesday by 1 Puddle Lane. If you haven't seen it already, I blogged about the pattern here. Of course it was a huge hit, so I had to make another. So here we have round 2.
If you remember from my previous review, the Miss Ruby Tuesday has 2 sets of separate bodice pieces. 1 set for sleeves and one for sleeveless. My last sew was sleeveless. I shortened the upper bodice by 1/2" which brought the entire armscye up by 1/2". This was a perfect fit for me and my skinny stick arms. So I knew I'd have to make the same adjustment on the sleeved bodice.
BUT, if we adjust the bodice we have to adjust the sleeve cap. So today, I'm going to show you how to shorten the sleeve cap to fit back into the armscye. AND, I'm also going to show you how to make the entire sleeve thinner for a skinny arm, because my stick arms aren't going anywhere, so I better fix the sleeve too!
Please note, just because you adjust the upper bodice does NOT mean you have to adjust the sleeve cap. The alternative would be to shift the entire armhole down 1/2". In this case that is NOT the adjustment I need.
Second note. in this specific case, I am adjusting the pattern piece by 1/4". I'm showing you the modifications I made for a different dress, but the steps are the same. The fabric I will be using with this pattern piece does not have enough vertical stretch so I had to accommodate the loss of length. I used this technique to adjust the pattern piece for the dress shown by 1/2".
On to our second adjustment. If you have skinny stick arms like me, this adjustment is definitely for you!
If you are using the 1 Puddle Lane Miss Ruby Tuesday pattern, you'll see that there is a notch that shows you where the center of the sleeve is. If you are using a 1/2 pattern piece, be sure to trace out an entire pattern piece with a full front and back.
Step #1- Measure the circumference of your arm at where the hem will hit your arm on the pattern. Measure the full width of the sleeve hem, minus the seam allowance of the pattern piece. Subtract your arm measurement from your sleeve hem measurement. In my case, there is a 1 1/2" difference between what the pattern is drafted for and what my arm measures. Because we are using knits, we can adjust all the way to my exact arm size. If this was a woven, we would have to add ease.
Step #3- Mark the seam allowance on your pattern piece. Place a piece of tape at this point. It will help reinforce this point where we will pivot the pattern. Also trace a line parallel to your hem that is the distance you need to "shrink" your hem width. In my case that line would be 1 1/2".
Step #4- Clip the pattern piece from the hem up to the marked seam allowance point. Do NOT cut through the seam allowance point. Cut from the seam to (but not through) the seam allowance point.