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Messed up/Muslin Monday with Vesta Grail

I've been holding onto this Messed Up/Muslin Monday for a long time. Not because it wasn't good, its great. But because I had so muc...

I've been holding onto this Messed Up/Muslin Monday for a long time. Not because it wasn't good, its great. But because I had so much other great stuff for you too. Also, I wanted to get at least 3 different things for you to see before I put this out there for you. So today on

So what is it? Today we're talking about the Vesta Grail Tee. Please note that I did receive this pattern for free for review. As always my opinions remain my own.

Now you're probably wondering why a pattern is getting a review on Messed Up/Muslin Monday. Well #1, because it is my blog and I can. But #2, I learned some really important lessons with this pattern, so as always I want to share them with you.

So the Vesta Grail Tee is different from any other Tee shirt pattern you've ever purchased. You see, unlike other designers that design for 1 body type, the Grail Tee is drafted 3 separate times, for 3 different body types. Those types are Hourglass, Pear and rectangle. Now I know what you're thinking. What about inverted rectangles? VERY good question. So as an inverted triangle, I also have a very large bust. Not all inverted triangles have a large bust. So I chatted with the owner of Vesta a bit and we determined that the best bust fit for me would be in the S shape (matching up with the Hourglass figure). The S shape is drafted for a D cup and I'm a sewing D cup. So It was love at first stitch. :)

For my pattern, I shortened the bodice at high bust (1/2") and waist (1") to match up to my body length measurements. I used the Medium shoulders, bust and waist (matches my full bust measurement) and then blended to the small hip. I also made the sleeve thinner to match up to my super skinny arms. Those were my only pre-sewing adjustments.

I love that this pattern has 3 separate patterns. #1 is the super slim fit sleeveless top. #2 is the more relaxed t-shirt with crew neck and #3 is the relaxed t-shirt with scoop neck. A smart seamstress would mix and match all those combinations and make all the t-shirts they could want.

This pattern calls for binding the neckline and turning it under. Do NOT attempt to put bands on it without cutting off the binding allowance, your neckline will be too high and your arm holes will be too tight. That is 100% where I messed up on my sleeveless one. I ended up cutting the binding off all together and voila, all fixed.

One other REALLY important thing, if you are making the Grail with sleeves, the seam allowance on the sleeve is 1/4" not 3/8" like it is on the rest of the garment. Not sure why this is, but be sure to follow the directions. HOWEVER, I'm pretty sure I missed that step and my tee turned out ok, so don't kick yourself too hard if you miss it.

So this pattern is meant to sit right at the high hip. I made my gray version according to the pattern with only my fit adjustments (which were minimal). For the sleeveless version I added a waist band based on another pattern I have. I don't really like shirts that don't come in tunic length. So for my last version, I created a cross over top in tunic length (Using the tutorial from 1 Puddle Lane). I just extended the hem line an extra 6 inches and then used my french curve to account for my hip width. SUPER easy and quite stunning if I do say so myself. :) For these specific photos I've got a slimming tank on underneath because I ate more than a bit too much lunch. I'm sure that's never happened to you.

All in all, this pattern gets a big thumbs up from me. I've never sewn a t-shirt straight from the pattern based on my bust size but the fit was PERFECT. No wrinkles, no weirdness. I did have to shorten the entire top, but that is a me adjustment and not a pattern problem. While I was hesitant to believe the hype, this is a well drafted pattern that fit me like a gliove.

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