Raglan Series: New Horizon Riviera Raglan
4:26 PM
You might think that after my raglan series I would be all done with Raglans. Hey, I even thought I was all done with raglans. You can see all of those reviews in my round up post. Of course click around if you want to see Kyema's raglans too.
But then, I saw the New Horizons Riviera Raglan and I knew I HAD TO HAVE IT. So I contacted New Horizons (formerly Terra's Treasures) and she was kind enough to give me a copy of the pattern for this review.
So what could compel me, the owner of all the other raglans, to want another raglan?
Let me tell you what DIDN'T tell me I needed it.
V-neckline. Nope. I have raglans with v-necklines.
Henley. Nope. I have all the henley patterns too (you can see those reviews in my henley series)
Hankerchief hem. Not that either. I've got the origami tunic and I could have hacked that myself.
It wasn't the thumbhole cuffs or the multiple hem lines or sleeve lengths. Not the triangle accent OR the notch (although that is something I don't yet have).
So what was it? If you haven't guessed, it was the sleeveless version. NONE of my patterns have this. I NEED this in my life. Also, this pattern includes 2 different "raglan" options. A regular and a high raglan. Those allow you to play with the amount of raglan you see on the shoulder. That was a nice touch.
So how'd it go? Easy peasy. Well, at least as easy as it can be when you need to adjust the lengths above the bust on a raglan pattern.
I did my standard adjustments. Remove 1/2" above the bust on both the front, back and sleeve pattern. Smooth out all those lines, which very nearly gave me heart palpitations. Its a little tricky to smooth those lines and I was worried I'd make it too round or too straight (but I didn't). I removed 1" of length from the waist.
Then for the grand finale, I did a true slash and spread full bust adjustment and then pivoted the dart out. Whew. That was like a work of art. My pattern looks like a kid was doing a collage type project and there is tape and random pieces of scrap paper all over it, but this fits amazing.
My muslin was the regular sleeved version which fit ok. 1 problem? My skinny little arms. So I then went back to my pattern and pivoted out 1" from the arm hem area. Once I made that adjustment I was ready to tackle the sleeveless version.
While normally I would have used a solid black for my final version, I opted for this awesome floral from Purple Seamstress instead. I actually bought yardage of this fabric last year. I loved it so much I asked Mel if she had more and she did. I'm so glad I opted for something a little more summery and fun. The pink is from scraps from my bin. Probably another Mel fabric too. I cut at the banded hem line and this is the length I got. I think I need to add just a little more length to center front so that it doesn't pull up and then probably 2" to the band to get the nice thick hem band I like. Next time I will cut at the shirt hem line and then add the band. I think that would make a great mini dress. I also want to try the tunic length too.
This pattern basically has everything you want in a raglan. And did I mention the v-neck is the perfect length on me? I thought I had a favorite raglan before, but this is my NEW favorite. My one complaint is that there are no measurements for rectangle pieces. GAH. Such a pain printing them. But I just printed, taped and measured the pieces and then wrote them on my other pattern pieces.
And of course hurry over, because it is only on sale for its release price through today, May 3rd!
Sizes
| XXS-3XL |
Printable pattern pages/copy shop version
| 36 full pages if you print all options |
Skill Level
| Beginner to intermediate depending on options chosen. |
Measurements for Rectangle Pieces
| No. :( |
Line Drawings
| Yes |
Size made
| small with 2" fba |
Options chosen
| Sleeveless. Banded Hem. |
Fabric Requirement for your size
| Less than 1 total yard. |
Measurement Chart
| High bust, full bust, waist, hip plus finished bust and lengths! |
Cutting Instructions
| yes |
Pattern Printing Layout
| Yes |
Cutting Layout
| Yes |
Suggested Fabrics
| Cotton interlock, Cotton Poly Blend, Cotton Lycra Blend, French Terry, knit fabric with stretch |
Layer Printing Option
| Yes |
Neck Line Options
| 6- hood, crew, v-neck, henley, split, triangle accent |
Sleeve Options
| 6- Long hemmed, Long w/cuff, long w/thumbhole cuff, 3/4, short, sleeveless |
Hem Options
| 4-T-shirt hemmed, t-shirt banded, tunic, hankerchief |
Color Blocking
| Pocket or bands |
Seam Allowance
| 3/8" |
Hem Allowance
| 1" |
Separate add-on pack
| Everythign is included. BUT, go download the free silhouette file from Sugar Plum Cuties. You'll need the code from the designer's release e-mail OR the facebook group. |
Fit
| Is awesome an option? Fitted at bust, semi fitted at waist. |
Easy to read instructions
| Yes |
Drawing or photograph instructions
| Both. |
6 comments
I have never sewn a raglan before. I bought this pattern yesterday. Fabric is in the mail. Still not sure which option to make. I love that you reviewed this just like the other raglans for comparison. Thanks
ReplyDeleteSuper, super cute!
ReplyDeleteHi Ti, awesome review as usual. I'm about to make this pattern for the first time, and this review came up, yay! Do you remove 1/2" above bust because your torso is shorter than the pattern? just curious because I think I might have this problem too. Also I'd love to know which tutorial you use or recommend for the slash and pivot FBA, as I'll need to do that for the first time too. Thanks for your helpful reviews! Happy holidays. :) Jen
ReplyDeleteSorry for the delay in response!
DeleteI don't like pivot and slide, only slash and spread.
There are many tutorials, but this one is pretty good. https://threedresses.org/2012/01/25/full-bust-adjustment-tutorial-shift-dress/
Here is Maria Denmark's method of removing the side dart. www.mariadenmark.com/2014/10/removing-bust-darts/
One Thimble Issue 13 has a tutorial on how to add and take away a bust dart for doing an FBA on a dartless top https://www.onethimble.com.au/product/one-thimble-issue-13/
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ReplyDeleteI'm 5'1" tall, so I usually remove 1/2" above the bust and then 1" at the waist. Then I'm average sized from waist to under my butt. Then I get short again (I have a 27"inseam).
ReplyDeleteAs for pivot and slide, I stopped using it as it sometimes does weird things to the armpit. I prefer slash and spread. There is a tutorial on Maria Denmark's blog on how to pivot out the dart you create with slash spread. I'm on vacation, so only have my phone for internet, but i can come back later tonight and post the links I prefer.