5 out of 4 Knot Dress Take 2
3:14 PM
WAY back in January of 2016, I shared my 5 out of 4 Knot Top. It was a good sew. Comfy, and I wore it often. I even promised I would make the dress version, some day. Some day has FINALLY arrived.
My measures are 35 over bust. 38 full bust. 31 waist. 38 hips. Using over bust +2" (the cup size 5 out of 4 drafts for) I made a straight size small, as all my measurements (aside from bust) put me in a size small. This is why I LOVE 5 out of 4. They draft for a square shouldered, rectangle body shape.
I decided NOT to do the 1" full bust adjustment that I "should" have needed based on my 38" bust. Reason #1 was that the pattern piece is a little awkward to FBA on. It would require redrafting the whole piece, doing the fba and then cutting it back open. TOO much work for me. Reason #2 was that I was going to use Simply By Ti Rayon Spandex and I knew that it could give me a little extra stretch to fit my bust. Reason #3 was because this pattern includes different cup lengths. My biggest problem with patterns is that my bust tends to give me an accidental "high-low" look. The added length in the bodice meant I wouldn't have this problem.
5 out of 4 drafts for a woman that is 5'9" tall. I'm 5'1" tall. So you know I removed length. Even more than usual. I removed 1/2" above the bust. 1 1/2" at the waist and 1 1/2" of the dress length at the "shorten/lengthen" line, which is BELOW the hip. It is really important when I shorten the dress that I always shorten below the hip, as my waist to hip measurement fits the average 5'5" tall body perfectly.
This pattern does NOT include a short sleeve option. That is no big deal because I never use any one's short sleeve line. To achieve my cap sleeve, I measured 3 3/8" down from the corner of the sleeve pattern piece. I then drew a line straight across. THEN I drew a second line 1" higher than the first line and marked it 1" away from the fold line. I then connected the 1" line to the original line at the under arm seam. (It makes sense when you look at the picture.).
The fit on this dress was spot on. Everything hugged my curves (or lack there of) perfectly. Which is actually my problem. Without any body curves of my own, I REALLY depend on my pattern to give me shape. This does NOT give me shape. <sigh> That doesn't make this a bad pattern. Not one bit. But it does make it a less than perfect style for me. So I'll be sticking to this pattern as a top, which was super flattering. Next thing on my list? Mash up a skirt style that will allow me to use the knot on this pattern, yes have a nice flowy skirt to add shape for my hips.
Want to duplicate this makeup look? Head over to my Younique Shop. Or reach out and I can get you free shipping. 
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