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February Fails: Adventures in pants

I am so happy that I got this great blog prompt from a facebook group I follow. Thanks Sew Redy for the great idea. I present to you:  Febr...

I am so happy that I got this great blog prompt from a facebook group I follow. Thanks Sew Redy for the great idea. I present to you: February Fails

So my February Fail is the Rabbit Rabbit Creations Sunshine Shorts. I had originally picked out the RRC Sunshine Shorts to be part of my 40 Garments in 40 Days series that will start next month. I felt so pressed for time, that I simply checked the size chart and started working on the shorts. I paid attention to all the pretty top stitching and was carefully ironing out all my hems. When they were done, I couldn't help showing them off to my husband saying, "These are just gorgeous."

Truth is, they are gorgeous. They also, don't fit. :(

So, what is wrong with the fit? I have several fit pics for you to look at.
(please note that to best show off the fit issues, these photos were lightened substantially)

From the back, you can see wrinkles radiating up into the crotch from below the butt.

From the side, the side seam pulls toward the back and lines up with the back of her leg instead of being perfectly vertical. I apologize for the angle of these shots, but you can still clearly see that the side seam is hitting at the back of her leg, rather than in the center.

From the front you can again see the pants have wrinkles into the crotch seam. 

Front Crotch Curve From Summer Petal Shorts
I had actually sized up from the pattern chart, so what happened? What happened, is that this pattern uses the same crotch curve for all sizes from size 1 through 12 AND the same rise front and back. We can definitely all agree that there is a difference between the width of a person from front to back between size 1 and size 12. The only variation on the pattern is the rise of the pattern. Having a higher rise does NOT make up for the fact that there isn't enough length in the crotch curve. I have to admit, that I'm not 100% up on the vocabulary and I struggle with the 2 terms crotch depth and crotch length. But the truth is, in this case it doesn't matter. The only thing that changes on the crotch curve from one size to the other is the rise and THAT isn't good fitting. If you want to read more about crotch length and crotch depth you can check out A Fashionable Stitch. There are pretty good descriptions as to what each is and how to modify pants to get a better fit.

When my daughter puts up hands in her pocket, she can pull the side seam to vertical, where it belongs. Obviously, I can't expect her to keep her hands in her pockets at all times. Also, when she puts her hands in her pockets, you can see all the excess fabric that is in the front crotch rise. That front rise needs to be properly scooped out.

All that said, as much as I like the style of these shorts, I'm not qualified to completely redraft a crotch curve. Your best bet in this case is to start with a better drafted pattern with different crotch curves for each size. Sadly, given the pitch of the side seam, my daughter can't even comfortably wear these shorts since lifting her knee pulls the entire pair of shorts down in the back.

So there you have it, my February Fail. Please note, that all of the shorts patterns I own from Rabbit Rabbit Creations have this same faulty rise. That includes: Sunshine Shorts, Petal Shorts, Sporty Shorts and Surfer Shorts. I have sent a message to the owner of Rabbit Rabbit Creations. I truly hope that there has been an update to these patterns that I am missing. Last time I checked, all 4 of these patterns are still for sale. I do have other Rabbit Rabbit Creations that I do love (at least the last time I sewed them). Happy sewing!

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  1. I don't understand pattern makers that don't seem to get that they need a different crotch curve for front and back. Like, really?? Your back is bigger than your front, right?

  2. I was actually quite amused by that. Trousers are the hardest to get right but that's why you test. A student of mine, at school, made a pair of shorts in year 13 for her exam product. She made 6 pairs before the crotch was perfect. I used her pattern to cut more for my year 9 students who loved them, it was that well cut. With trousers you can't get away with not knowing what you are doing. If you don't know then leave it until you do know and test until it's right. Anyway,thank you for your post.


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