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Itch To Stitch Marbella

When it was time to buy a pattern as my very own birthday celebration last month, I decided I wanted something more formal than my usual kni...

When it was time to buy a pattern as my very own birthday celebration last month, I decided I wanted something more formal than my usual knit patterns. I also knew that I didn't want to have to spend a ton of time on muslining. So as I was searching through what was available, I came upon the Itch To Stitch Marbella.

The Marbella has 1 bodice and 2 skirt options. I knew I wanted the circle skirt option, so I was glad that was included.

The sizing suggestions in the pattern say to use your full bust size and then pick your cup size based on your bra size. My bra size is GG. There is no GG (of course), so I hopped over to the Itch to Stitch group to ask for suggestions on how to pick my size. Kennis was there to suggest I start with a size 10 with a D cup.

I know that all designers design differently and that the fit could be variable, so I was ready to have to make a ton of adjustments. I started out with the size 10 D as suggested. I shortened the armhole and shortened the bodice per my usual adjustments. MISTAKE! I had heard that ITS drafts for a more petite body shape, but I didn't measure the side seam! DOH! Take 2. I shortened the pattern above the bust (at the yoke section) and left the rest of the bodice alone. I should have brought the bodice up just about 1/2". It would have hit at a thinner spot and helped me look a tiny bit more balanced.

Because the yoke doesn't take into account the cup size, the shoulders did not fit for me. They were at least 1" too wide, both in the front AND back. If I was going to pick a pattern size using my overbust, I would have picked a size 8 and done a full bust adjustment instead. To bring the shoulders in, while keeping the shape of the bust, I pivoted the center neckline 1/2" over and 1/4" at the bottom of the yoke. I then pivoted 1/4" at the top of the center front and back pieces and blended to zero at the waist of the piece. This is not the "correct" way to do this as it can distort the grainline, but it is the 'fast' way to do it. Especially when you're dealing with yokes.

I of course shortened the skirt a ton to get it to this point. I don't remember how much (maybe 3"?).

For the rest of the sizing, I blended to a size 6 waist (which matches my 30" waist). The finished measurement makes the 6 waist 33" and I found that to be too much ease in the waist of the pattern. The extra ease left my body looking more square than curvy. So I took 1/4" out of the front and back side seams which removed 1 total inch out of the waist. This seemed more flattering for the otherwise fitted shape on the upper body. I also had to shrink the skirt the same 1/4" at the side seam to ensure that it would still fit the bodice.

This is definitely not a lounge dress, so I don't expect to get a ton of wear out of it, but it was a very satisfying sew. The sort of sew where you take your time and get each step right. Applying interfacing, finishing each seam with a serger and even installing an invisible zipper required the sort of focus and care that is completely different from my typical knit projects.

This actually isn't even my first complete Marbella. I also used this pattern for my family photo shoot which turned out AMAZING. A special thanks to Lacey Dippold Photography for taking some amazing photos! I feel like the softer, purple fabric was a better color for me. But the black/gold leopard is still fun.

And I'm right here again saying that the suggestion for inverted triangles is no boatnecks. I say, I like boat necks.

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